Blue Flame: Iris Poudre
…by Pierre Bourdon, creator of Davidoff Cool Water among other things
Top notes: aldehydes, rose, violet, ylang-ylang
Middle note: iris (orris)
Base notes: sandalwood, tonka bean, musk
This is the “bluest” scent I’ve ever smelled. It makes me think of the blue of a gas flame.
The scent of iris is actually derived from the roots (called orris), not the flower, and has a powdery, chalky, rooty quality. Iris Poudre means “Powdery Iris,” and this perfume emphasizes the more powdery, refined quality of iris, rather than its earthiness. (For emphasis on the earthy, vegetal quality, check out Iris Silver Mist, which I’ve reviewed previously, but I can’t get the link to work. For something less sinister than ISM, try Bois d’Iris by The Different Company.)
Iris Poudre is just beautiful. A bit powdery, but not smotheringly dusty, a bit floral, but not overwhelming, and blue, blue, blue. Quintessentially cool and sophisticated. The drydown warms up a bit as the wood and musk come out, but it never gets exactly cuddly.
Rating: 5 out of 5
So how does it stack up for me personally?
Personality–Well, non-cuddly is kind of a defining characteristic for me, so it works.
Comfort level–There’s a minor problem here. Iris Poudre is an aldehydic floral, like Chanel No. 5 or Chanel No. 22. Aldehydes are synthetics that give “lift” to a fragrance, rather like carbonation to a beverage. I’m not opposed to them on principle, but a little goes a long way. Iris Poudre has just a touch too much to suit me first thing in the morning.
Preferences: It is gorgeous in its blueness, but…
Final Verdict: I am not the rightful wearer of Iris Poudre.
By the way, Rom is watching “Forged in Fire” on TV, watching people make knives, while I review perfume. It’s a gender-role festival!